Once creek water recedes, check the floor and subfloor, the inside of the lower walls, the furnace and water heater area, and the grade outside the house. Keep the power off to any wet electrical equipment, and do not run the furnace until a technician has checked it. Record each finding with a date and a photograph.
Key takeaways
- Creek water leaves silt and debris, and both should be cleared before the floor is read.
- The wall cavity can hold moisture after the room looks dry, so the lower wall needs a reading.
- The furnace and water heater area is checked by a technician before the appliances are used again.
- The grade and window wells show where outside water entered, and they should be recorded.
- Electrical equipment that stood in water is not used until an electrician or the utility has confirmed it is safe.
- A dated record of each finding helps the crew, the insurer and any contractor who repairs the house.
What should you check first once the creek has gone down?
Check that the power to the affected area is safe before going in, then look at the lowest point of the house for silt, standing water and any sign the water rose higher than the visible line. Photograph the water line and the lowest point before anything is cleared.
Creek water usually leaves a layer of silt and debris on floors, in drains and along the base of walls. Those deposits hide the true condition of the surface, so the first task is to see what is under them. Do not walk through silt in a room that still has standing water, and keep children and pets out.
Once it is safe, note the highest water line on the walls and measure its height against a fixed point, such as a door frame. That line is the first record of how far the water reached, and it is the reference the crew and the insurer will compare with later readings.
How do you check the floor and the subfloor?
Lift a small corner of carpet and pad to see whether the floor beneath is wet. Check hard floors for swelling, cupping or a soft spot, and listen for a squeak or a give under foot. A floor that looks dry on top can still be wet beneath, and that is the reason for a reading.
Carpet and pad that stood in creek water are usually removed, because they hold silt and moisture for a long time. Pull a sample area to see how far the water went under the pad, and photograph what you find. Do not try to dry a floor by running fans over it alone, because that can leave the moisture trapped.
Subfloor that has taken water can cup, soften or lose strength. A soft spot is a reason to call a crew for a moisture reading and, if needed, a builder to look at the framing. Do not stand on a soft floor, and keep weight off any area that gives under foot.
Why check inside the wall cavity?
Water can wick up inside the wall above the visible line and stay there after the surface dries. A wall that looks dry from the room can hold moisture in its insulation and framing. A moisture reading at the base of the wall shows whether the cavity is still wet.
The bottom plate, the lowest part of the framing, is the first place to read. Insulation at the base of the wall holds water for a long time, and it can keep the framing damp even after the room looks dry. The crew opens the wall at the highest reading to see the cavity directly.
Do not close a wall that was wet until a reading shows it is dry. Painting or covering a damp wall traps the moisture inside and can hide mold growth that starts there. Keep the wall open or covered with a breathable barrier until the readings are confirmed.
| Spot | Reading or look | What it tells you |
|---|---|---|
| Bottom plate | A moisture reading at the lowest point of the wall | Whether water has wicked into the framing |
| Insulation at the base | Look for staining, sagging or a damp feel | Whether the insulation must be removed |
| Wall above the silt line | A reading a foot or more above the visible water line | How far moisture rose inside the cavity |
| Joint between floor and wall | A reading along the joint at the slab edge | Whether water entered at the floor edge |
What about the furnace and water heater area?
The furnace, the water heater and their controls sit low in many houses, so creek water can reach them. Do not run the furnace or the water heater until a technician has checked them. Water near a gas appliance is a reason to call the utility before the appliance is used.
A gas appliance that was in water can have controls, wiring or a burner that is damaged. A heating technician or the appliance manufacturer's service provider should inspect the unit, check the gas connection and confirm the safety controls before it is lit. Turn off the power to the unit at the breaker if you can do so safely.
If you smell gas, leave the house and call the utility from outside. Do not light a match or use a switch in the house. The area around the furnace and water heater should be dried and checked along with the rest of the lower level.
What should you check outside?
Check the grade on the side where the creek water came from, the window wells, the door thresholds and the downspouts. Note where the water entered and where it pooled. Those points show the route, and the route is what a grading or drainage contractor needs to plan a repair.
Look for silt lines on the outside of the foundation, a gap under a door or a window well full of debris. A downspout that discharges against the wall can keep water at the foundation, and a low spot in the yard can send runoff toward the house after the creek has gone down.
Photograph each entry point with a reference object in the frame and note the direction of the slope. The record is more useful to a contractor when it shows the route and the direction, not only the damage inside.
What should you check for electrical hazards?
Treat any electrical equipment that stood in creek water as unsafe until an electrician or the utility has confirmed it. Keep the breakers for the wet area off, do not plug in appliances that were in water, and do not use extension cords through wet floors. A panel that is wet should be left to a professional.
Outlets, switches, light fixtures and the breaker panel can all hold water in their boxes after a flood. Water in a box can damage wiring and connections in ways that are hard to judge from outside, so the safe approach is to assume the system is unsafe until a professional checks it.
Appliances that were in water, including washers, dryers, pumps and freezers, should not be used until a technician has inspected them. Photograph each one, including the model and any serial plate, and tell the insurer about it before it is repaired or replaced.
Treat switches, light fixtures and outlets in the wet room the same way. Cover any opening with a dry cover and do not touch the wires inside a box that has been in water. Ask the electrician to test the circuits before the power is restored to that room, and to write down what was checked.
What happens if the water comes back?
Creek water can return during the next heavy rain, especially if the ground is saturated and the same entry is still open. A new wet line or a rising reading means the source is still active. Call the crew to check the readings and find the route before the next storm.
A creek that rises again can bring water through the same window well, door or slab edge. Note the time, the height of the new water and whether it followed the same route as before. That information lets the crew compare the event with the first one and focus on the entry that failed again.
Do not assume the house is safe because the creek is back within its banks. A dry week can be followed by a wet one, and the entry should be checked after each storm until a repair is in place.
What should you write down, and what should you keep?
Write down each finding with its date, the room, the height of the water line and the entry point you believe it used. Keep the photographs, the readings, any receipts and the notes of each call. A complete and dated record is what the insurer, the crew and any contractor will rely on.
A short written note after each check is more useful than a memory of the day. The note should say what was seen, what was measured and what was done. A simple table with rooms down one side and dates across the top works well for tracking the drying and the checks.
Keep the record together in one folder, with the photographs labeled and the readings in date order. That folder becomes the basis for the claim, the repair estimate and any later review, and it saves the homeowner from rebuilding the facts from memory.
Frequently asked questions
Can I turn the furnace back on after creek water?
Not until a technician has checked it. Water near the furnace, its controls or its gas connection can make it unsafe to light. Turn the power off at the breaker if you can do so safely, and call the utility if you smell gas.
How long should I wait before I close up the wall?
Wait until a moisture reading shows the cavity is dry. There is no set number of days. A wall closed while it is still wet traps the moisture and can hide growth that starts inside it.
What if the floor looks dry but feels spongy?
A spongy floor is a sign of moisture or damaged subfloor below the surface. Keep weight off the area and call for a reading. A builder should check the framing if the floor is soft or sagging.
Can I use a shop vacuum on the silt?
Only if the power to the area is safe and the vacuum is rated for wet pickup. Silt and standing water can damage a household vacuum, and a wet vacuum plugged into a wet circuit is a shock risk. A crew uses equipment designed for the job.
What should I tell the insurer about the creek?
Tell the insurer where the water came from, when it arrived and how high it reached, using your photos and the crew's readings. Describe the creek as the source only if you know it. The insurer decides how the event is treated under the policy.
This guide is general information for Douglas County homeowners, not a substitute for an on-site inspection. Prices are estimates. See our disclaimer.